Italian

Roast Poussin (baby chicken) with Red Grapes, Rose...

There are dishes that stain your memories; that tag along with your thoughts like a nagging toddler. This is about one of them. Based on some bogus science I would hazard a guess that for every 24 chicken dinners that prove beige and forgettable, there’s one that will sing. I’m thinking about chicken a bit […]

Socca (Chickpea Flour Pancakes with Ricotta)

There are some things afoot in our new home in the cheaper part of the ‘hood. London is a chequerboard. Step one block south, east, or west and it can very quickly become a different city. The trees loom taller, the shadows are longer. And the highjinks can be much more pronounced. At 10.24 pm […]

Baked Panzanella Nests

There’s a fine line between content and smug. These crisp and squished tomato bread nests may be the tipping point. It started with a late Friday afternoon excursion to Borough markets. The sun was out.  At the junction there were crowds spilling out onto the curb, sipping sneaky pints and getting a jump start on […]

An English June menu; starting with asparagus toas...

A third of the way into my grandmother’s hand written recipe book, sandwiched between the ingredients for Sharp Lemon pickle and Seville Orange Marmalade are six drafted menus. Each menu is allocated to a month and they progress from June to November. There is little there to carry through the hunger gap of winter. These […]

Baked gnocchi with meatballs, tomato and mozzarell...

If gnocchi by themselves constitute a food hug, then this is closer to a smothering embrace. It’s also an answer to both questions and crisis, from ‘what will we eat for dinner?’, through to ‘do you think I trade this spluttering body in for the 2013 model?’ It’s hard to pinpoint anything more comforting than […]