A June English menu continued: Salmon Soup

A June English menu continued: Salmon Soup

Cream of salmon soup. That’s what was prescribed to start my grandmother’s day-dreamed menu for a summer dinner party in 1937.

The party itself never came to be, but there’s something that makes me think the soup may have made an appearance in on her table. Her original recipe has all the hallmarks of her thriftiness; calling for a scant half tin of salmon submerged in 2 pints of milk.

The rest of the soup involves a roux, whipping cream, onion and nutmeg.

If I’m honest with everyone, hers was not the soup that graced my table when I re imagined her menu last week.

While the concept of a pale pink hued soup …

An English June menu; starting with asparagus toasts

A third of the way into my grandmother’s hand written recipe book, sandwiched between the ingredients for Sharp Lemon pickle and Seville Orange Marmalade are six drafted menus.

Each menu is allocated to a month and they progress from June to November. There is little there to carry through the hunger gap of winter. These menus are a celebration of British seasonality long before it was fashionable to do so.

In June it’s all about asparagus and cherries. Dessert in August is fixed at damson cream. For main course in October it’s roast pheasant.

Eight years ago they were  described by my late grandmother to a curious, unmarried me as “the follies of …

Default roast chicken (with lardons, lettuce and peas)

 

If you went in search of the ultimate roast chicken recipe, there’s every chance you could go mad en route.

Everyone has an opinion and will spruik a different path to get to the gold.

Do you gently poach the chicken first to keep the breast moist? Rotate it like a Romanian gymnast every 20 minutes in the oven to get an even glow? Shove a lemon or a beer can up its wazoo for extra flavour? Add a compound butter over the breast? Shun all butter or liquids? (Liquids supposedly being the enemy of crisp skin.)

But sometimes golden perfection isn’t what you need. I don’t need a chicken that’s going to …