Quest for the best

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Fat Duck chapter two

If madness and civility are two prongs of the Fat Duck fork, nostalgia is the third. Amongst the cutlery and Kangaroo paws on the table there’s also a little card, explaining Heston’s approach to nostalgic British cooking. It invites us to play along and leave behind a record of our own sensory cues, food memories […]

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Fat Duck chapter one

“But I don’t want to go among mad people”, Alice remarked.“Oh, you can’t help that”, said the Cat: “we’re all mad here. I’m mad. You’re mad.”“How do you know I’m mad?” said Alice.“You must be,” said the Cat, “or you wouldn’t have come here” * Some people think we’re mad. But simple maths and nursery […]

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El Bulli chapter 3: the main event

Someone very wise once said; life is a marathon, not a sprint. The key being it’s important to pace yourself. It’s not a bad principle to take with you to El Bulli. The emotional ‘incident’ with the coconut sponge came at course nine, of 35. We realise now that it’s time to settle in and […]

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El Bulli chapter 2: the experience begins

It starts with a cocktail on the terrace. You would be hard pressed to conjure a more magical location to commence a journey to the food equivalent of Never Never land. At 8.30 pm the Costa Brava sun is surprisingly soothing- by now its stick and sting have slipped away. On the terrace the white […]

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Bras

If flowers say I’m sorry and sweets say I love you, anyone in the dog-house would be well pressed to schedule a visit to Bras. The Hungry One is rarely in trouble, so our nine hour detour to Michel and Sebastien Bras’ famed place in Laguiole can only be explained as another step in our […]