Mauro Cologreco is a man who likes his vegetables. I doubt his mother had to bribe him to finish his greens. In the gardens that surround his glass rimmed oasis in Menton there are no fewer than 39 varieties of tomato growing. Mauro’s restaurant; Mirazur is a serene no-man’s-land in an area vomiting with excess. […]
Quest for the best
It’s pasta and beans, but not as you know it. The most classic Italian peasant dish comes layered like a trifle. At the top of the shot glass is an air of rosemary, nestled beneath that are shapes of pasta constructed from congealed parmesan. Under that there’s a dense paste of veal and beans. You […]
Sometimes it’s hard to justify why we spend the kind of money that we do on food. Even in the best financial climes I understand why it raises eyebrows. I understand the criticisms; it’s so fleeting- a couple of hours in a nice space, some poorly focused photos and a slightly hazy recollection is all […]
I think I’ve found my Peter Pan happy place. Yountville welcomes us with a wink, its trees and buildings sparkling under a solid spray of fairy lights. The gentle curves of Washington Street come lined with restaurants; appropriate ornamentation for the Napa Valley’s culinary capital. We’ve come here for some serious R and R; rest […]
I’ve read and heard lots of things about Mugaritz. Last year Restaurant magazine put it forward as the seventh best restaurant in the world. I’d heard it’s bit like El Bulli for those who can’t get a booking (raise your hands now…).I’d read that Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz is so driven he went and studied […]

