I don’t have an Italian grandmother. But if I did, I’m guessing her drawing room might look a little like Latteria. And if I did, I’d hope she cooked food as good as this.

Latteria is the Milanese restaurant that you hoped you’d find, but weren’t sure you could. In La Brera, it’s small to the point of cramped, with wooden chairs and tables butting up against each other. The roof is painted cantelope orange and the front counter of this restaurant (which once was a corner store which sold bread, eggs and milk) shows off pastel hued tortes and bowls of fruit. The walls are crowded with oil paintings and …